Aari work vs embroidery: what aari work is and how it is different

Aari work is hand embroidery made with a hooked needle instead of a regular one. The fabric is stretched tight on a frame, the hook goes in from the top, pulls the thread up from underneath as a loop, and the loops join into a fine line of chain stitch. So aari is not separate from embroidery. It is one way of doing it, and it is the craft on every piece of Jig Jig, our new collection. Here is how it works, how it differs from ordinary needle embroidery, and how to wear it.

What the word means

Aari is the name of the tool: a long needle that ends in a small hook, a bit like a very fine crochet hook with a sharp point. The work is named after it. In Kutch, in Gujarat, the same hook embroidery is called aribharat. In Kashmir, chain stitch made with a hook has long been used on cloaks, shawls and rugs.

How aari work is done

The cloth is spread on a wooden frame so it stays flat and tight. One hand holds the hook on top of the fabric. The other hand stays underneath and feeds the thread. The hook pushes through, catches the thread, brings it up as a loop, and goes back down a little ahead to make the next one. Line after line of these loops builds the pattern.

Sequins and beads can be added as the stitching goes, which is why aari is so often paired with them and with zari, the gold or silver metallic thread used in Indian embroidery.

Aari work vs regular embroidery

• The tool. Aari uses a hooked needle. Regular hand embroidery uses a needle with an eye.
• The stitch. Aari is mostly chain stitch. Needle embroidery uses many stitches: running stitch, satin stitch, French knots, chain stitch and more.
• The frame. Aari is always done on a frame, because the hook needs the cloth tight. Needle embroidery can be done with or without one.
• The speed. A hook makes chain stitch much faster than a needle does, so aari can cover big areas with fine detail.
• The look. The lines come out so fine and even that aari is sometimes mistaken for machine work. Up close you see the small loops of the chain.

Aari, zari and zardozi are not the same thing

These three get mixed up all the time. Aari is the hook and the chain stitch it makes. Zari is the thread, gold or silver in colour. Zardozi is heavy gold and silver embroidery with metal wire, spangles and sometimes stones, usually on silk, satin or velvet. One piece can have all three ideas in it: aari stitching, partly in zari thread, with sequins worked in.

Is aari work only for blouses and weddings?

Search for aari work in India and almost everything you find is saree blouses and bridal wear. That is still where it looks most dramatic. But the craft is simply a way of drawing with thread, and it works on smaller, simpler clothes too. That was the idea behind Jig Jig: take embroidery people usually save for weddings and put it on pieces you can wear to a dinner, a party or out with friends.

How to wear aari work without looking overdressed

Let the embroidery be the one busy thing in the outfit. With the red Mirchi top, keep the bottom plain: black trousers for a party, blue jeans and flats for a regular day. With the Tamasha mini skirt, a plain tee or a sheer white blouse is enough. Ivy is a short dress that also works as a short kurti, so wear it on its own with heels, or over straight pants with flats.

How to care for aari work

Embroidery with sequins and zari needs a soft touch. Gentle wash in cold water, do not tumble dry, dry in the shade, and iron on the reverse on low heat so the iron never sits on the sequins.

Shop Jig Jig

Three pieces, each finished by hand with aari embroidery, sequins and zari: the Mirchi Red Embroidered Top, the Tamasha Embroidered Mini Skirt and the Ivy Green Embroidered Dress, in sizes XS to XXL. Each piece is made to order and reaches you in about 20 days, with free shipping across India. See them all in Jig Jig, with a size guide on every page.